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A great Graves wine from Pessac-Léognan, Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 2022 reveals a rare blend dominated by Cabernet Franc, crafted by Stéphane Derenoncourt. The 2022 vintage, sunny and generous, boasts an intense purple color with aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, and violet, along with a full-bodied palate featuring chalky tannins and a lingering, briny finish. A wine tailor-made for aging and fine dining.
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With its 5-century-old vineyard, Château Carmes Haut Brion is a must in the Pessac-Léognan appellation.
It was in 1584 that the Catholic monks of the Grands Carmes order - who take their name from Mont Carmel, literally "God's Vineyard" - were offered land by the lord of the Haut Brion house, Jean de Potensac.
At that time, Domaine comprised only meadows, a few vines and a mill located on the Peugue river. It was only 50 years later that the monks decided to expand their vineyard by purchasing plots belonging to Haut Brion. For two centuries, they produced one of the region's most famous wines, while keeping the name Haut Brion, which became Carmes Haut Brion by custom.
Confiscated in 1791 during the French Revolution, it became Bien National and was only bought back a century later by wine merchant Léon Colin, illustrious ancestor of the Chantecaille family. The latter then had the Château we know today built and the park landscaped.
In 2010, Château was bought by Patrice Pichet, a big name in real estate and a long-time lover of the property. Anxious to do his utmost to bring Domaine to its apogee, he will have a new winery built and the vineyard redeveloped, putting oenologists Guillaume Pouthier and Stéphane Derenoncourt in charge.
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The 2022 vintage of Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion immediately stands out for the uniqueness of its blend: 40 percent Cabernet Franc, 34 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and 26 percent Merlot—a proportion of Cabernet Franc rarely seen as dominant in the Pessac-Léognan appellation. This Grand Vin de Graves, crafted under the guidance of consulting oenologist Stéphane Derenoncourt on behalf of the Pichet Group, draws from this climatically contrasting year a dense body, with ripe fruit and a chalky texture.
The Tasting
The color is a deep purple, with violet highlights that betray the vintage’s youth. On the nose, the initial impression reveals very ripe black fruits—blackcurrant and blackberry—intermingled with a note of fig and a hint of violet. With aeration, a more distinct floral dimension emerges, dominated by hyacinth, while the fruit retains all its richness. On the palate, the attack is full-bodied and generous, driven by concentrated fruit that quickly gives way to a welcome freshness. The fine, chalky tannic structure bears the hallmark of Cabernet Franc and gives the wine a particularly silky texture on the mid-palate. A slight saline note revitalizes the whole and extends the lingering finish, which features aromas of black fruits and dark flowers.
Food and Wine Pairings
The chalky texture of the tannins and the aromatic freshness of the vintage naturally pair well with full-flavored red meats: a roast rack of lamb with herbs or a rib of beef in a herb crust will find an ideal partner in this wine. The floral notes and the finesse of the structure also invite you to pair it with game birds—such as partridge or pheasant—served in a light sauce. A well-aged, pressed-curd cheese, such as a long-aged Comté, will perfectly round out this meal.
Aging Potential
With a projected aging potential of over twenty years, this vintage does not need to be opened prematurely. The chalky tannic structure and the preserved aromatic freshness are the two pillars of this longevity: they ensure that the wine will gradually gain in complexity, with the oak influence from its twenty-four months of ageing fully integrating by 2028 or 2030. While the desire to enjoy it now is understandable, decanting it at least two hours before serving will reveal a more open profile. This Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 2022 will likely reach its peak between 2030 and 2042.
The Vintage in the Vineyard
The fall and winter of 2021–2022 were relatively dry, forcing the vines to develop deeper roots to draw water from the deeper layers of the soil. The first buds appeared in mid-March under relatively normal conditions, but by May, heat and drought set in earlier than usual. Rain in mid-August provided much-needed relief, allowing the berries to complete their ripening under favorable conditions. The harvest proceeded smoothly, with bunches featuring August-ripened stems, berries fully ripened on all sides, and seeds at their peak, creating the ideal conditions for high-quality extraction.
Work in the Winery
The winemaking process for this vintage incorporates approximately seventy percent whole clusters, a technical choice that preserves aromatic freshness and refines the tannic texture. Ageing, which lasts twenty-four months, combines French oak barrels—seventy percent of which are new—with vats and amphorae; the latter vessel helps bring out the fruit without adding additional oak influence. This diversity of containers, characteristic of Stéphane Derenoncourt’s winemaking signature at the wine estate, contributes to the complexity and coherence of the final profile of Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 2022.