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A near-monopoly of Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru in Morey-Saint-Denis, this 2021 vintage from Domaine des Lambrays reveals the full complexity of a mosaic of marl and clay-limestone terroirs. Under the guidance of Jacques Devauges, this demanding 2021 vintage delivers a supple and smooth texture. On the nose, it offers notes of macerated cherry and blackcurrant powder; on the palate, silky tannins and a lingering finish. A Burgundian gem tailor-made for discerning connoisseurs.
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In a title deed from the Abbey of Citeaux dated February 1365, the name "Cloux des Lambrey" appears for the first time, a spelling which disappeared over time and which today is written "Clos des Lambrays". On a milestone in the wall of sealed Clos des Lambrays appears this same date as a reminder to visitors in homage to time.
Le Clos des Lambrays is located at Morey-Saint-Denis on the prestigious Côte des Nuits. The village of Morey-Saint-Denis has the highest proportion of Grands Crus.
The Clos, one of the Rares and most prestigious Clos de Bourgogne is surrounded by walls and is situated on a gentle ridge on which lies the vineyard of Clos des Lambrays whose oldest vines are over 60 years old. The Clos des Lambrays is planted with Pinot Noir on a very small area of around 8 hectares, a very Rare but sublime production.
The Clos des Lambrays house also produces a Puligny-Montrachet and Clos du Cailleret les Folatieres both in Premier Cru.
Clos des Lambrays occupies a unique position in the Côte de Nuits: with its 8 hectares held almost exclusively by Domaine des Lambrays, it is one of the few wine estates of this scale in the Côte de Nuits. The 2021 vintage, demanding by nature, produced a small harvest that, according to the wine estate’s observers, echoes the signature style of the 2017 vintage, combining supple texture with a complex bouquet. Under the leadership of Jacques Devauges, formerly of Clos de Tart, the wine estate has pursued a clear ambition since LVMH acquired a stake in the business.
The Tasting
The color is a medium ruby with purplish highlights characteristic of a still-young Pinot Noir, displaying beautiful clarity. The nose opens with notes of macerated cherry and blackcurrant powder—the signature aromas of the 2021 Clos des Lambrays—complemented by noble vegetal notes from whole-bunch fermentation, as well as subtle hints of blackberry and blueberry. With aeration, the bouquet gains floral complexity. On the palate, the wine reveals a texture that is both supple and smooth, supported by silky tannins and a refined structure that never seeks to show off. The lingering finish extends the aromas of red and black fruits with lovely freshness, leaving an impression of precision and delicacy consistent with the character of this Grand Cru.
Food and Wine Pairings
The wine’s refined structure and smooth texture naturally pair well with exceptional dishes: a roasted pheasant or a young partridge casserole will find an ideal match in this Grand Cru, as will a roast beef served with black truffles. A well-aged Époisses or a mature Cîteaux will complement the roundness of the tannins without overpowering its delicacy.
Aging Potential
The 2021 vintage can be enjoyed now to appreciate its characteristic purity of fruit and aromatic freshness, but it deserves several years of cellaring to reveal its full potential. It has a reasonable aging potential of fifteen to twenty-five years from the vintage, supported by silky, well-integrated tannins, the balance between body and the vintage’s natural acidity, as well as the richness of the vineyard’s clay-limestone and marl terroir. Tertiary aromas of forest floor, truffle, and sweet spices will gradually enrich the wine’s current fruity profile. If opening soon, decanting for one hour will allow the bouquet to fully unfold.
The Vintage in the Vineyard
The year 2021 brought particularly challenging weather conditions to all of Burgundy. Early spring frosts affected the vines, significantly reducing the harvest volume. Persistent fungal pressure throughout the season required constant vigilance in the rows. Clos des Lambrays, with its mosaic of soils—ranging from marl at the top of the hillside to mixtures of clay and limestone at the bottom—offered varied drainage and growing conditions depending on the specific plot. The harvest, smaller than usual, yielded grapes of concentrated quality, the foundation for a wine with a supple body and a complex bouquet.
Work in the Cellar
Jacques Devauges opted for whole-bunch fermentation, the effects of which are directly evident in the 2021’s aromatic profile, with those noble vegetal notes that run through the bouquet. Ageing in oak barrels, with 60% new oak, complements the wine’s body without weighing it down, aiming for the gradual integration of oak into the Pinot Noir’s silky texture. This approach, consistent with the ambition to restore the historic reputation of the Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, confirms the direction the wine estate has taken since the arrival of its technical director.