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Obras maestras de vino y licores en su puerta
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La historia de la Maison Leroy comenzó en 1968, cuando François Leroy, viticultor y propietario de viñedos en Pommard, Meursault, Chambertin, Musigny, Clos de Vougeot y Richebourg, decidió crear una estructura con el objetivo de expandirse.
Durante la segunda parte del siglo XX, los esfuerzos de su hijo se vieron recompensados con varias medallas y Grandes Premios tanto en Francia como en Bélgica. Sin embargo, no fue hasta la llegada de Henri Leroy en 1919, la tercera generación, cuando las cosas cambiaron realmente. En 1942, la Maison Leroy se convirtió en propietaria de la mitad de las acciones del Domaine de Romanée-Conti. Henry dedicaría el resto de su vida a la finca, dándolo todo para crear la joya que hoy conocemos.
Lalou Bize-Leroy, hija de Henri y gran dama del mundo del vino de Borgoña, se unió a la aventura en 1955. Rápidamente siguió los pasos de su padre, convirtiéndose en Presidenta y Directora General de la Maison Leroy, así como en codirectora del Romanée-Conti Domaine. Catadora sin igual y conocedora de los terruños de Borgoña, siempre buscará lo mejor. Esta búsqueda de la perfección la llevó en 1988 a comprar varios Domaines y a cultivarlos de forma biodinámica, lo que la convirtió en pionera en este campo.
Con 21 hectáreas 99 áreas 66 centiáreas, el Domaine Leroy cuenta hoy con 9 Grands Crus, 8 Premiers Crus, 9 Villages y algunos Bourgognes genéricos. Con sus terruños picantes, nos ofrece cada cosecha vinos base confidenciales de una riqueza increíble.
Encuentra a continuación el comentario de Neal Martin de WineAdvocate en inglés del 31 de diciembre de 2015:
"The 2014 Pommard les Vignots has a very elegant bouquet, very pure and self-contained with bright red cherry fruit.
The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and acidity, red cherry and a touch of spice on the structured, slightly brittle finish. Very fine.
Instantly I saw that they cellar was occupied by a few more barrels than last year, the yields a tad higher at a still very modest 21 hectoliters per hectare.
Lalou told me that July and August was rather poor in terms of the weather, but matters improved after August 15 and that she ended up picking from September 17. "I like the 2014s a lot.
They are very 'jolie'," she tells me, flitting between barrels, making sure that each is not too reduced before giving the nod to pour into my glass.
"But the 2014s are different to the 2013s. They were more 'gentile.' I find these a little more tannic than the 2013s, with very good acidity levels.
The pH was around 3.30. I find the very precise with lovely fruit." Lalou traditionally bottles earlier than her peers and she told me that she intends to bottle in December.
Though there was some reduction to overcome, it is clear that the 2014s represent a very fine vintage for the domaine and I found the wines as Lalou described, full of energy and nervousness, precise and mineral-driven, not overtly powerful wines but with what you might call "streamlined intensity" -- and often deliriously silky-smooth textures.
No doubt there will be difficultly to find and warrant a second mortgage, but these are seriously fine expressions of the vintage crafted by a one-off who truly deserves the title of 'legend.'
As you expect, these are wines that, like Lalou, are full of energy despite the reduction that one inevitably encounters out of barrel.
They are very terroir-specific, perhaps not abiding by the Burgundy hierarchy as much as other vintages; that is to say, some of the premier crus I thoughts ranked equal to the grand crus and vice versa.
The grands crus are exceptional, especially the Richebourg, which ranks as one of the finest 2014s that I tasted.
This is closely followed by the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Musigny and Chambertin, incidentally the latter augmented by a new acquisition that the domaine are currently converting to biodynamic viticulture.
Some of the village crus are truly wonderful and I was particularly taken with the Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Allots this year".
